Have To Be Cautious When Changing Cables, Earthquake Ready??, Difficult To Use, Think Through Your Cable Layout Carefully
I have a Samsung PN50B860 plasma approximately 1" thin and wanted to mount it over a rarely used gas log fireplace. I looked at the Samsung disc system (WMN1000B) but the wall studs weren't in the right place and I don't trust sheetrock anchors. Sorry, I'm a belt and suspenders do-it-yourselfer. I then noticed an early review of the Sanus LL11-B1. I decided to give it a try after finding a well-priced unit on the web. Here is the good - 1. It really is thin as advertised and comes with a healthy set of bolts and fasteners for your TV and for wall mounting. 2. And your TV will look great after you get it hung on the wall. I'll post a photo in a second comment (after I have a chance to take one). Here are the lessons I learned. 1 - Plan your cable routing carefully. I was doing in-wall HDMI (3 ea), Ethernet, and audio plus a new 120V AC circuit to power the unit and peripherals. And I wanted these behind the TV so it was truly 'a picture on the wall' experience. You will have to install a recessed AC outlet and signal cable box since there is not enough clearance for the AC plug on most TVs - or you will have to clip the power cord (and likely your warranty) and properly attach one of the flat plugs that have less than ~ 1/2 in height. The recessed AV boxes seem to require a larger hole in the wall than a flush AV connector frame so keep that in mind if you might someday want to cover it with a real picture. 2. Don't forget to adjust the 'lock release' cords to be right down at the bottom of the TV. If you haven't done this, trying to pull the TV out far enough to grab and pull them to release the lock puts a lot of pressure on the locking wedge. This makes it almost impossible to unlock the mount to install cables or take the TV back down to adjust the release cords to the proper length. Almost boxed myself in there. 3. Plugging in cables from a 'behind the TV' AV box can be a blind task, done by feel and a reference to the TV connector diagram. In my case, the standoffs at the bottom of the vertical arms didn't offer enough gap from the wall for me to see behind the TV into the recessed cable jacks cavity. So I had to feel for the proper jack and make sure the orientation of the connector matched so I could slip in the Ethernet, HDMI, and audio plugs. Challenging but doable for my TV. Yours may be different. 4. As Sanus cautions, when unlocked, the TV, if lifted just a half inch, can come off the mounting rail. Ouch. 5. I'd like to see some comment on earthquake tolerance. Even when locked, the bottom of the TV can easily be pulled out to maybe a half inch to an inch further from the wall suggesting the lock wedges are not really that tightly bound to the horizontal rail when locked. Bottom Line I'm pleased with the end result, learned some potential gotchas to watch out for, and will wonder if it will take some CA Richter 5.0 and above shaking. (Where are my suspenders? :-))
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